my redemption – passioneats

Roast chicken is one of those meals that is grounding to me. Beyond comfort food, it is essential nourishment–earthy, savory and satisfying. But as I confessed early on in this blog, I have a problem roasting chickens. Amanda Hesser’s Spatchcocked Braise-Roasted Chicken recipe (here) seemed to be the answer to that problem. And then a friend suggested I try Ina Garten’s approach.

Now, I must tell you, I love Ina. She’s my kind of cook: she understands good ingredients and creates recipes that are simple and to the point. But I’ve had my share of roast chicken nightmares, so I wasn’t sure I wanted to go there again. At last I had to give it another try–mostly so I could talk about it with you. Turns out, Ina’s chicken really lives up to its name. Follow her directions and it is foolproof. Roasted to perfection, the skin is golden, the meat is juicy (and fully-cooked!), and the vegetables that accompany it are well-seasoned and delicious. Add a little wine and butter to the pan juices and you can quickly whip up a lovely gravy. A dish of caramelized brussels sprouts topped with toasted shallots and breadcrumbs make the perfect side. Just the fulfilling dinner we needed tonight. I’ve been saved!

Ina’s Perfect Roast Chicken

Of course, I couldn’t resist tweaking this recipe just a tiny bit. As always, I begin by brining my chicken–it makes the meat juicier and the skin crispier. Don’t be intimidated by this: in a large bowl make a solution of cool water, 1/4 cup kosher salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar, stir well. Put the chicken in the brine, breast side down, and place the bowl in the refrigerator. This can be done the day before, 2 hours before, or 20 minutes before you’re ready to cook. Take the chicken out, rinse it well and dry inside and out with a paper towel.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Ina’s recipe calls for a 5 to 6 pound chicken, which I don’t find readily available in my markets. Instead, I prepare a 3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken (to serve 4 people) and adjust the cooking time slightly. Begin by seasoning the inside of the chicken with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. To simplify this and make sure to avoid cross-contamination, I prepare a salt and pepper mix in a small ramekin. Stuff the cavity of the bird with a bunch of fresh thyme, 1 lemon cut in half, and 1 head of garlic, cut in half crosswise. Brush the outside of the chicken with 2 tablespoons of melted butter, and then season liberally with more of the salt and pepper mix and (my tweak because it reminds me of my grandma) a sprinkling of sweet paprika. Using kitchen twine, tie the legs together and tuck the wing tips behind and under the bird.

In the bottom of a roasting pan, place 1 large yellow onion that’s been cut into wedges, 4 peeled carrots which have been cut into 2 inch chunks (split the thicker ends of carrot in half lengthwise so they’ll cook evenly), and 1 fennel bulb (top removed), also cut into wedges. Toss the vegetables with olive oil, salt and pepper and 10 sprigs of thyme. Spread in an even layer and place the chicken on top.

Roast the chicken in the oven for 1 1/4 hours (for a 3 1/2 to 4 pound bird; 1 1/2 hours for a 5 to 6 pound bird), until the juice runs clear when pierced between the leg and the thigh. Place the chicken on a cutting board to rest and tent with aluminum foil–don’t cover tightly or the bird will steam and the skin will not be crisp. Dish the vegetables onto a platter and cover tightly with foil. Let stand 20 minutes. Meanwhile, place the roasting pan on top of the stove and skim any excess fat from the surface of the juices. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and add 1/4 cup white wine. Slightly boil to burn off the alcohol and finish with a tablespoon of butter to emulsify the gravy. Taste and adjust seasoning. Carve and slice the chicken and serve on the platter with the vegetables, with the gravy alongside.

Adapted from Ina Garten

Serves 4:

Brining Solution:
cool water
1/4 cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons sugar

1-3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken, preferably organic
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
bunch of fresh thyme
1 lemon cut in half
1 head of garlic
2 tablespoons melted butter
a sprinkling of sweet paprika
1 large yellow onion
4 peeled carrots
1 fennel bulb
olive oil
10 sprigs of thyme
1/4 cup white wine

Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Shallot Breadcrumbs

Surprisingly, my kids like brussels sprouts. I think anyone who really gives them a go realizes they’re packed with flavor and are well-paired with lots of tantalizing ingredients: chestnuts, pancetta, or, as in the case here, shallots and breadcrumbs.

Start this recipe by first blanching the brussels sprouts: bring a small saucepan of water to boil, add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt, and add 1 pound of sprouts that have been trimmed and halved lengthwise (top to root). Bring back to a boil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately plunge the sprouts into an ice water bath to halt the cooking. Drain and lay them out on a baking sheet that’s been lined with paper towels to absorb the moisture.

In a large skillet over a medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil until melted and shimmering. Add the brussels sprouts in one layer, cut side down, and saute undisturbed for 4 to 5 minutes until golden. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, turn and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes.

In another small skillet, saute 1 large minced shallot in 2 teaspoons butter, until slightly golden. Add 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs (regular breadcrumbs will work as well) and another 2 teaspoons butter to the skillet and toast, stirring often until evenly browned. Season and sprinkle over the brussels sprouts. Serve immediately.

Serves 4:

1 pound brussel sprouts
kosher salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large minced shallot
4 teaspoons unsalted butter, divided
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs

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