Right from the start, I want to acknowledge something. I know this dish is not for everyone. Shad roe is a delicacy–something unusual, along the lines of sweetbreads or sea urchin. Definitely not for finicky eaters. But, come on, be a little adventurous, you won’t be disappointed.
I get excited when I see shad roe at my fishmonger–it’s a sign that spring is around the corner! This roe of the shad fish is very delicate and actually quite mild in flavor. Although it is also fish eggs, it tastes nothing like caviar. Cooked gently in bacon fat with shallots and cream, it’s lovely as a first course or even a light dinner. I know, I know, you can’t even imagine it. And that’s understandable. Yet, if you’re willing to give it a try, I think you’ll find this is quite the tasty treat. After all, a dish smothered in cream and bacon…what’s not to love?
Shad Roe with Cream & Bacon
Shad roe is sold as a “pair”–two lobe shaped sacs, attached by a membrane, that have more than a passing resemblance to liver. And, like liver, they start out red and turn a not so appetizing shade of gray once cooked. But don’t let that put you off. The roe, though rich, has a delicate texture that takes on the flavor profile of the sauce it’s cooked in.
For a pair of roe, which serves 2 people, begin by sauteing 2 strips of thick bacon in a heavy skillet over medium heat. When the bacon is cooked and crispy, remove them to a plate that’s lined with paper towels to drain.
Lower the heat to medium low. Thinly slice 2 shallots and sauté in the bacon fat that’s left in the skillet.
Prepare the shad roe by carefully slicing the membrane connecting the 2 lobes to separate them. Dust with flour, season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and add them to the skillet. Gently cook for 2 to 3 minutes.
Turn and cook the roe on the other side for another 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream to the pan and simmer for 2 minutes. Squeeze the juice of 1/2 lemon over the cream sauce and stir. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more lemon juice, and salt and pepper if needed. Serve the roe on plates, spooning the cream sauce with shallots over it. Crumble the bacon and 1 tablespoon of freshly minced parsley on top. Broaden your horizons….
Serves 2: