One of my earliest culinary revelations happened while having dinner with my family at a lovely restaurant while we were on a trip somewhere (though I can’t remember where). It was a somewhat formal restaurant–white tablecloths and all–and I remember ordering an entree of sea scallops in a rich beef and red wine reduction. The concept that seafood could be paired with beef or even red wine was new to me, and I was so excited to try the unusual combination. The buttery rich scallops, which were served with the coral, or roe, still attached, were perfectly balanced with depth of beef flavor and acid from the wine reduction–I savored every bite. If you follow this blog, you know that anything that comes out of the sea is alright with me. But I do think sea scallops are particularly wonderful because they have an uncanny ability to pair well with many ingredients. Because of their uber richness, they are best simply seared and served with a complex variety of flavors. Like how they pair beautifully with the earthiness of mushrooms in this dish. The addition of a medium dry Sherry adds nuttiness to the sauce, while balsamic vinegar lends a hit of acid and a touch of sweetness. And don’t get me started on the crunchy breadcrumb parsley topping. Served over a fine pasta, like fedelini or cappelini, this recipe will leave you having a few revelations of your own.
Seared Scallops with Wild Mushroom Fedelini
It is so important to find fresh sea scallops for this dish. Unfortunately, I think it’s pretty impossible to buy scallops with their roe still attached–in a regular market, anyway. You’d probably have to catch them live and shuck them yourself. Sea scallops are sold either “dry” or “wet”; the difference is that the wet variety have had a sodium additive shot into them, allowing them to absorb moisture before they’re frozen, thereby increasing their weight for sale. Clearly the dry scallops are the better choice, but unfortunately most markets only carry the wet packed scallops. Just be sure they’re firm and whole.
It’s important to make sure to remove the tough muscle on the side of each scallop (that’s the part that holds it to its shell). It pulls off easily with your fingers or a paring knife. Pat the scallops dry well with paper towels.
Make the breadcrumb topping: preheat an oven to 350 degrees. Cut the crust off a baguette and chop into large cubes. Place in a small food processor, add fresh parsley leaves and extra virgin olive oil. Pulse until reduced to crumbs.
Lay out on a sheet pan and bake the breadcrumb mixture for about 15 minutes, stirring at least once midway, until golden brown. Let cool.
In a large skillet, preferably 6 quart, melt butter over medium heat. Add the sliced mixture of mushrooms and fresh thyme sprigs to the pan; I like to use shiitake, button, and/or cremini mushrooms (also known as “baby bellas”) because they’re always readily available. But feel free to experiment. If you can find fresh chanterelles or morels, go for it! When you saute the mushrooms, season them with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper and then let them sit undisturbed for a while in the pan. That way they’ll have a chance to release their moisture and turn golden. Give them a good toss and continue to cook–about 6 to 8 minutes total.
Add the sliced shallot to the skillet, toss, and cook for another minute or two until the onion begins to turn translucent. Pour in the Sherry–I like to use the Amontillado variety, which is medium-dry. Boil for a couple of minutes until reduced, then add the low-sodium chicken stock. Cook down for a few minutes more, until sauce is thick. Add the balsamic vinegar, reduce again for a minute or two, then pour in the heavy cream. Simmer for 2 or 3 more minutes, cover and turn off heat.
In a heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, heat butter over medium high heat. Season the sea scallops generously with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the scallops to the hot pan and sear, undisturbed, for 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown. Here’s a tip: if the scallop sticks to the pan when you try to turn it, it’s not ready. When a protein is fully seared it will release itself from the surface of the pan. When each scallop has released, flip it over to sear the other side for 3 more minutes. To maximize the texture, do not overcook them–you want them to be seared on each end and just heated through.
Over a high flame, heat a pasta pot filled 3/4 with water. When the water is at a rolling boil, add a generous amount of sea salt and then the pasta–I use fedelini, but capellini or even vermicelli will do. Watch carefully: this delicate pasta cooks very quickly. As soon as it reaches an al dente consistency, drain.
Rewarm the mushroom mixture over medium low heat and add in cooked pasta. Toss to combine, making sure the pasta is well coated with the sauce. Serve the pasta and mushrooms in shallow bowls, topping each serving with 3 or 4 scallops. Sprinkle the crunchy breadcrumb topping over all and finish with a pinch of sea salt. Prepare to be amazed!
Serves 4:
1 pound sea scallops
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 baguette, crusted and cut into cubes
1/4 cup parsley leaves
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound mixed wild mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
3 thyme sprigs
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 shallot, sliced
1/2 cup Sherry, preferably Amontillado
1/4 cup low sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 pound fedelini pasta
sea salt