love apple lust

There’s nothing like a farm fresh, ruby ripe, fragrant tomato. Bursting with tangy flavor, my favorite way to eat one is just out of hand, sprinkled with sea salt, juice dripping down my chin. With so much of the season’s bounty cascading from produce stands, it can be daunting to figure out how best to make use of it all. This dish is classic French and is an easy yet very impressive way to make the most of those love apples. It’s been a while since I made this one, but my daughter has been hankering for it. Actually, she’s been hankering for any dish involving tomatoes lately, and, since she’s leaving for college very soon, I’m happy to fulfill her every wish. I love what heat does to tomatoes–it softens the flesh, loosens the juices and brings out the richness of flavor. That warm, juicy tomato flesh mingles with the toasty crunch of breadcrumbs, the bite of shallots and garlic, the herbaceous hit of mixed chives, thyme, tarragon and basil, and the creaminess of chèvre. I’m in love.

Herbed Chèvre Stuffed Tomatoes

 

One bite of this dish and you’ll know why it’s a classic. As is true for so much of what we cook, this dish is only as good as the cumulative quality of the ingredients you use. Make breadcrumbs from good quality bread. Use fresh French goat cheese. Pungent shallots and garlic add a kick of flavor; chop a good mix of fresh herbs to round out the flavor.
 

 

This time of year, it shouldn’t be difficult to find farm fresh ripe tomatoes. Please don’t be tempted to use those hydroponically grown, or pretty looking vine-ripened orbs, that have never known the warmth of dirt or sun. They have little flavor. Even less than perfectly ripe farm grown tomatoes will have more flavor than those. You’ll want to choose ones that are plump and all about the same size. If they don’t stand on their own, slice a tiny bit off the bottom to level them out.

 

Using a small paring knife, remove the top of each tomato, leaving a wide opening. Carve out the inside pulp, being careful to leave the sides and bottom intact. Sprinkle salt inside and invert tomatoes on a towel covered baking sheet; let stand for 20 minutes.

 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut several thick slices from a good quality peasant bread. I was thrilled to find one of my favorite loaves, a pane pugliese from Sullivan Street Bakery, at my local Whole Foods. The inside has a slightly sour taste and the crust is crunchy and thick, with rich oven baked goodness. Several pulses in my food processor later and I had about 2 cups of the most flavorful and fragrant breadcrumbs.

 

Finely dice a large shallot and a few garlic cloves. Chop up a large handful of a mix of herbs. I like to use chives, thyme, tarragon and basil, but feel free to experiment with different varieties–parsley, mint, marjoram, chervil would all work well in this dish. Toss all together with the breadcrumbs.

 

Add about 4 ounces of crumbled fresh goat cheese. Carefully toss the cheese with the other ingredients, being careful not to blend the cheese in too much. Add extra virgin olive oil and stir until the crumbs are nicely moistened. Season with freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of kosher salt.

 

Place the tomato shells upright on a baking sheet. Fill with the breadcrumb mixture and top with the tomato lid. Drizzle a bit more extra virgin olive oil on top.

 

Place baking sheet in oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until tomato is cooked through and and slightly golden. 

 

Drizzle again with a little more extra virgin olive oil and serve. These jewels are just bursting with flavor. They work wonderfully as a light lunch, alongside a green salad. I served these luscious tomatoes as a side to a wonderful meal of grilled lemon rosemary chicken and patty pan squash…stay tuned for recipes!

 

Serves 4:
 
4 ripe farm fresh tomatoes
kosher salt
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs, from several thick slices of peasant bread
1 large or 2 small shallots, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, finely diced
1/3 cup minced mixed herbs: chives, tarragon, thyme, basil 
4 ounces goat cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
freshly cracked black pepper