Many people like to choose where they dine based on a chef’s credentials, many others could care less or wouldn’t even know who those chefs are, no matter how many reality shows they’ve chopped their way through. Because I am somewhat obsessed with the food world and all those involved, I am drawn to checking out the latest and greatest–I can’t help but make dining choices based on a pedigree. On some occasions, location will dictate restaurant choice, so I’ll look for places that have garnered great reviews by foodies’ whose opinions I value. These three restaurants are examples of my somewhat un-scientific selection process.
Aldea
George Mendes, the chef of this wonderfully inventive Iberian restaurant, has had a short, but storied career. He began in the kitchen under David Bouley, was executive chef at Le Zoo in Greenwich Village, and was most recently chef de cuisine at Tocqueville–one of my personal favorites. In 2011, he was awarded one of the best new chefs at Food and Wine. His recent stint on Top Chef Masters, on the other hand, was not so remarkable–he was eliminated in the fifth round. Oh well. He has certainly scored with this highly stylistic restaurant in the Flatiron district, which provided a lovely atmosphere for a family lunch late this spring.
There’s an element of theatre here, sitting across from the open kitchen. The waitstaff is friendly but not intrusive. Our servings were artfully plated, with unusual taste combinations. We shared a board of the house favorite jamon–beautifully cured and luscious. An appetizer of foie gras terrine, served with crisp toasts, was decadent with pear gelee and a curious addition of cocoa nibs sprinkled around the plate.
For our main courses, we tucked into duck confit and sausage in a flavorful jambalaya; succulent scallops, perfectly seared, were served with rich, fresh porcini mushrooms, shaved radishes and a small, but very creamy pot of homemade grits.
But the biggest taste sensation for me (and my main reason for coming here) was the sea urchin sandwich. I know that uni is an acquired taste–it took me over 20 years to acquire it, but once you’re hooked, you’re hooked. This briny, sumptuous urchin contrasted nicely with the acid of ripe slices of tomato, and was perfectly portioned on thin slabs of baguette. Overall, a lovely culinary adventure.
Otto
I have a love-hate relationship with Otto. I’ve had some great meals here. I’ve had some memorable family celebrations here. But I’ve also had the unfortunate experience of feeling like just another cow in the herd, as this enoteca pizzeria by Iron Chef Mario Batali has the regrettable distinction of being the perfect tourist destination, given its village locale and lower prices (as compared to his other restaurants). That being said, it still has many redeeming qualities and so I find myself drawn back again and again.
Most recently, I chose to dine here (early, before the masses descended) for an intimate tête-à-tête with my son. We had some catching up to do and he needed to be properly fed. We began, as we usually do, with some antipasti selections. Just two ramekins this time: scrumptious roasted peppers with capers, and mussels lush with onions and more peppers.
A special spring salad of sautéed ramps, topped with a perfectly cooked egg and sprinkled with fennel dust was light and flavorful. Next, we shared a pizza, Prosciutto Arugula: not the most ambitious, but crispy and delicious.
For secondi, my son ordered a special pasta, which he promptly inhaled, as you can see. I can’t even remember now what it was, but it was obviously tasty!
I enjoyed a more substantial pasta, taccozzette con stracotto, large shards of pasta with braised pork shoulder, tomato and basil. Nice, but not remarkable.
If you do eat at Otto, be sure to make a reservation, go early when it’s calmer, and be sure to save room for dessert. My favorite dessert to enjoy is a coupe of magnificent olive oil gelato. Dense and delectable, its incredible flavor is contrasted by a sprinkling of fleur de sel. On this trip, I made the error of pairing it with a second gelato flavor, cheating myself of a full serving. I won’t make that mistake again, when I will–inevitably–be back.
Tipsy Parson
Sometimes the best places to eat don’t have a star chef manning the stove. They are just well-run restaurants with a cohesive team, front and back, that is clearly passionate about what they do and the food that they serve. This latest discovery of mine is a true gem. A lovely neighborhood spot in Chelsea, they have it going on when it comes to friendly service and innovative cuisine. I liked it so much I ate there twice: first with one of my dearest pals for dinner, and next for brunch with my son, who was dying to check it out after my raves.
The restaurant has two rooms–a brighter space in the front by the bar, and a cozier room in the back facing a faux garden. When my pal and I went for dinner, we sat at a cozy banquette in the corner–the perfect spot to survey the whole room. Our charming waiter, Kyle, made us instantly feel welcome and happy to be there. We happily nibbled on delicious warm cornbread with jalapeno apple butter while we sipped our vodka Tipsy Palmers.
Fried green tomatoes, with a smoky tomato dipping sauce, were a little too breaded for my taste. But soft shell crabs, served with spring vegetables in a meyer lemon aioli, were crunchy and satisfying.
Chicken pot pie was well-designed and out of the ordinary, with a brown sauce instead of cream, and a light butter crust topped with wild mushrooms and crumbled goat cheese.
This delightful meal was topped off by our sinful desserts, adorably presented in jars. Red velvet cheesecake and minty grasshopper with chocolate cookie crumbs were luscious treats.
Brunch with my son, at a cafe table by the “garden,” was an equally memorable meal, though a bit less stunning. Our server was friendly but not the charming Kyle.
This time that amazing spoonbread was served alongside a pile of bbq pulled pork which was topped with two perfectly fried eggs. Breathtaking.
Not as wowing–herbed ricotta toast layered with scrambled eggs and sauteed wild mushrooms was nice, but a bit on the heavy side. The pecan sticky bun was, on the other hand, heavenly–light buttery dough with rich syrup and candied pecans. Finger licking good…and so was this restaurant which has earned a spot at the top of my short list!
