the last (hearty) supper

Somebody must have really pissed off Mother Nature. I mean, it’s almost April 1st, and it’s damp and it’s chilly and it’s supposed to snow tonight! Remember that old adage, “March comes in like a lion, and goes out like a lamb”? Well, it was totally reversed this year. If it seems like I’m harping on the weather, well…I guess I am. It’s just that we’ve had such a rough winter and we don’t deserve this. I keep trying to will the warmer weather this way, but to no avail. So, in one last epicurean gasp, I present to you my final homage to winter. This stick-to-your-bones pasta sauce is complex, satisfying, and authentic to its region. You may be surprised by the lack of tomato in this dish, but, as this sauce originates from the Emilia-Romagna area of northern Italy, known for cattle and dairy, it’s totally classic. So enjoy this rich and hearty meal. And let this be the last of it.

Pappardelle Bolognese

This sauce begins, as many sauces do, with a classic mirepoix. Finely chopped celery, carrot and onion, with a touch of garlic create the base to this ragu. But first, to add authentic Italian flavor, sauté minced pancetta over medium heat in a heavy casserole or dutch oven, for 8 to 10 minutes to render the fat. Add the mirepoix–minus the garlic–and cook for 10 minutes, until translucent. Then add the garlic and saute for one to two minutes more.

When the vegetables are nicely golden, add sprigs of thyme and the chopped veal, pork and beef to the pot. Cook, stirring often, until meat is broken up and browned, about 5 minutes. Add dry white wine to the sauce and cook down until liquid is mostly evaporated. Add tomato paste, mixed with water, and stir well to combine. Lower the heat and slowly add the milk, little by little, until it’s been absorbed and the sauce is thick, about 1 1/2 hours.

Taste bolognese and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in heavy cream. Cook pappardelle in plenty of well-salted boiling water, according to package directions. Serve bolognese over the pasta, and top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Serves 4:

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/4 pound pancetta, minced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 to 3 celery stalks, diced

1 large onion, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 large sprigs of thyme

1/2 pound ground veal

1/2 pound ground pork

1/2 pound ground beef

1 cup dry white wine

3 tablespoons tomato paste, mixed with 1/4 cup water

1 1/2 cups whole milk

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 pound pappardelle

freshly grated Parmesan cheese

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