seriously simple

Sometimes it’s just better to take it down a notch. Deconstruct. Uncomplicate. Pasta is a basic comfort food around here. Add some veg, a little cheese, and, of course, the requisite garlic, and you’ve got a simply satisfying meal.

Rigatoni with Garlic, Broccoli, & Ricotta Salata

It begins this way: bring a large pot of water to a boil (about 5 quarts). Add a nice handful of salt–when your pasta water tastes like the sea, you know your pasta will be well seasoned too. Cut a large head of broccoli into florets and add to the boiling water. As soon as the water comes back to a boil, use a strainer to remove the broccoli.



Plunge the broccoli immediately into a bowl of ice water to shock it and stop the cooking process. This technique, called blanching, can be used to prepare a variety of vegetables. Almost any vegetable you cook can be blanched, and then sautéed or roasted immediately, or in a day or so, depending on your cooking schedule. Drain the broccoli well and lay on a sheet pan lined with paper towels to dry.

The water used to cook the broccoli should now be brought back to a boil for the pasta–the broccoli flavor that has infused this water is an added flavor bonus for this dish. Once it has reached a rolling boil again, add the rigatoni. Give it a good stir and bring the pasta back to a boil. While it’s cooking, pasta should remain at a low rolling boil throughout–stir occasionally to make sure it doesn’t stick together. Of course, you can choose any pasta shape you like: penne, orecchiette, farfalle–use your imagination. I am currently a big fan of a line of pasta by Lidia Bastianich, the Queen of Italian cuisine. This pasta is produced in Italy and always cooks to al dente perfection.

While the pasta cooks, heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add an ample amount of olive oil. Add 5 to 6 cloves of sliced garlic, a couple of chopped anchovies (before you turn up your nose, it’s important to note that they lend real depth of flavor–you won’t even taste them in  the final dish), and a teaspoon or so of red chili flakes–or pepperoncino, as the Queen calls them. This can be adjusted to your level of heat tolerance. Lower the temperature, and sauté over medium-low heat until the garlic begins to turn golden and the anchovy melts away. Don’t overcook the garlic or it will become bitter.



Add the broccoli florets to the pan and cook; season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. When the pasta is ready, add it to the pan, using a strainer. Crumble about a third pound of ricotta salata over all. I actually prefer to use a Greek cheese called Manouri, which is also a dried ricotta, but it’s creamier and less salty than the traditional Italian ricotta salata.

Using a heatproof bowl, like a Pyrex measuring cup, add 3/4 to 1 cup of pasta water from the pot into the saute pan. Raise the heat to medium and cook down the water until it blends with the other ingredients, forming a sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding extra freshly cracked black pepper.



Serve in shallow bowls, and top with a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil. Accompany this pasta with a salad of baby arugula simply tossed with freshly squeezed lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Easy peasy.



Serves 4:

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