rome on a plate

I was fortunate enough to travel through Italy once, but, because we stayed in northern country,  I never made it to Rome. I’ll make it there one day I’m sure. In the meantime, I can enjoy this dish, which I’m told is quintessential Roman cuisine. It’s impressive in its simplicity. In many Italian restaurants, pasta water is considered gold–that salty, starch-laden liquid adds just the right balance to many sauces. It’s the perfect final ingredient in this recipe too, bringing all the elements together. You’ll find many popular versions of this dish include tomato, but  the true dish from the town of Amatrice, northeast of Rome, is actually prepared without it. In my opinion, the dish stands proudly on these ingredients alone. What do you think?

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

 

When I say simple, I mean it–only a handful of ingredients. This dish traditionally calls for guanciale, unsmoked bacon made from the pork cheek, but it’s pretty difficult to find. Pancetta, which is more readily available, is a great substitute. Use 1/2 pound of pancetta–have your deli man give you 2 thick slices. Before you attempt to dice it, place it in the freezer for 1 to 2 minutes, so that it will solidify a bit. Add the pancetta to a saute pan which has been heated with two teaspoons of olive oil over medium to medium-low heat. Saute, rendering the fat, until it’s  translucent and  just starting to brown.

 

 

Thinly slice two red onions and add to pancetta in the pan. Cook slowly over medium-low heat, tossing often, until onions are translucent and slightly golden.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of about 5 quarts water to a rolling boil. Add a handful of kosher salt. Taste the water–it should taste as salty as the sea. Bucatini is the traditional pasta to use in this dish–like a thick spaghetti, it is hollow in the center to suck up that sauce. Cook according to package directions, making sure to stir often.When pasta is al dente, add to the pan with the onion and pancetta. Toss in about 3/4 cup grated pecorino romano.



Using a heatproof measuring cup, slowly add 1 to 2 cups of that beautiful pasta water to thicken and bring the sauce together. Add lots of freshly cracked black pepper to the dish–salt is not needed here because the pancetta and pecorino romano already add that component. Toss to combine, adding more pasta water, if needed, to the sauce.

Sprinkle some roughly chopped basil over the pasta and pass more grated romano at the table. Serve with crusty bread, a great glass of Italian red–transport yourself.

Serves 4:

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