the it ingredient

I have a constant itch that must be scratched. It’s a dogged curiosity that won’t let me accept the status quo. I always need to be in the know: the hottest place to eat, the hippest chef on the scene, the latest food trend in the kitchen. That’s why, when I first heard about this “new” ingredient, I had to find it, own it, cook with it. Now. Lucky for me, Korean condiments are not out of my realm of obtainability, thanks to a local Asian chain known as H Mart. The friendly store manager who helped me find it on the shelf told me that, without this staple, Korean cooking isn’t–well–Korean. The thick, rich, fermented chili paste is news to me, but oh, what a discovery! Touted as the Sriracha of the moment, it blows most spicy condiments away with its slightly sweet, perfectly piquant flavor. It will be my new go-to–I’m already conjuring up many exciting ways to use it. Here it’s slathered on whole striped bass before roasting and used in the accompanying sauce. This fish never had it so good.

Gochujang Striped Bass

My introduction to this savory delight was in The New York Times. Famed chef Kerri Heffernan used the chili paste as a base for some wonderful flavors to complement the fish. The first time I made the recipe, I couldn’t find Gochujang (Whole Foods, you let me down), so I devised my own substitute, using what I had on hand: a combination of chili garlic sauce and Sriracha. It was good, but I had no idea what I was missing. If you can’t find the chili paste, I offer a way to approximate the flavors below. But do try to find it–if all else fails, you can order it online here from H Mart.
 


If you’ve never cooked with whole fish before, now’s the time to give it a try. It’s actually easier to prepare and the flesh is so much more sumptuous to eat. Any firm, white-fleshed fish works well here: striped bass, black sea bass, snapper, about 2 pounds each. Ask your fishmonger to gut, scale, and remove the fins and gills for you. Bring the fish to room temperature before preparing.


Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together Gochujang with freshly minced thyme leaves, minced garlic cloves and heavy cream. (If you don’t have Gochujang, 
see substitution below.)


Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Place them in a small roasting pan or large sauté pan, belly down, using their collar bones to prop them into an upright position.

 
 
Brush about half of the Gochujang mixture over the tops and sides of each fish. Add 1/2 cup water to the bottom of the pan–this will help steam the flesh. 
 
 
Place in the oven and roast for 18 to 20 minutes. The flesh should be almost completely opaque; use a knife to gently prod beneath the skin to check.
 
 
In the meantime, make the sauce: add canola oil and red wine vinegar to the leftover Gochujang mixture. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon into a small serving bowl for the table.
 


Let the fish rest for a couple of minutes before filleting. This is when you get your nerve up–it’s a tricky thing to do. Use a sharp knife to score the skin and then a flexible metal spatula to lift the fillets off the central spine. If all else fails (as is often the case for me), a large spoon can help remove the flesh from the bones. Serve with rice and wilted spinach.

 
 
Serves 4:
 
2-2 pound whole fish: striped bass, black sea bass, snapper
3/4 cup Gochujang*
2 tablespoons minced thyme leaves
6 minced garlic cloves
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup water for pan
4 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
 
*substitution: 2/3 cup chili garlic sauce & 2 tablespoons Sriracha


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