ramp redemption

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Ricotta Toast with Ramps and Poached Egg

One of my favorite ways to cook is to let seasonal produce inspire me. Spring brings asparagus and artichokes, peas and rhubarb, and ramps, the most elusive ingredient of all. Because this season’s most prized possession has a small window of availability, it’s pretty hard to find—a fact which proved to be a debacle for me in a story I shared here. This time I wasn’t taking any chances: I enlisted the help of the produce manager at my local Whole Foods. Kate not only called me as soon as the ramps came in, she also made sure to put some aside for me. That’s what I call service. So now that I had my hands on these beauties, what to do with them? Keep it simple. Showcase their delicate texture and garlicky flavor on crunchy toast, spread thick with creamy homemade ricotta and topped with a perfectly poached egg. This is my spring awakening.

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easy as pie

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Caramelized Onion, Bacon & Mushroom Pizza

My daughter is home for the summer. Once we finish plowing through mountains of laundry and packing away all her college gear, I’m looking forward to some serious girl bonding. We love curling up on the couch with some old rom-coms (vintage 80’s or 90’s, please) or the next episode in a quest to conquer all seven seasons of Gilmore Girls, our guiltiest pleasure. Of course, we’ll need some yummy treats to fortify our media blitz and pizza perfectly fits the bill. Around here, we like our pies with crispy crusts and unconventional toppings. There’s nothing run of the mill about these: sweetly caramelized Vidalia onions, smoky bacon morsels and meaty exotic mushrooms melting together with creamy goat cheese. This pizza, with the easiest dough you ever made, ends with a bright drizzle of herb oil—kind of like a pesto minus the nuts and cheese. A glass of red wine, an arugula salad and we’re ready to cozy up for the night. Remote, please.

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a bowl for the season

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Creamy Polenta with Roasted Mushrooms and Asparagus

It’s one of those in-between times of year. Spring is here, yet still finding its footing. Days are balmy, but it cools down at night. I love it. While I rediscover the new season’s bounty, I like to look for ways to transition from comfort food to lighter fare. Growing up, polenta was really not a part of my food vernacular, but now has become a recurring dish in my repertoire. Here, it’s a lovely foil to show off spring vegetables which have been roasted to optimize their flavor. This is simple: a meal in a bowl. Comforting and savory and perfect for this time of year.

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give peas a chance

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Pea Tendril Salad with Smoked Trout and Pickled Shallot

Ah, spring. Birds are chirping, buds are blooming, the grass is finally turning grassy again. Here is a delicate salad that celebrates the season: bright and green and bursting with flavor. Pea tendrils, crisp and sweet, mingle with fresh peas, tiny dice of buttery avocado and shards of sumptuous smoked trout. Quickly pickled shallot adds a tangy component; horseradish crème fraîche is the creamy bite that brings this wonderful salad together. Welcome spring with open arms.

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mon petit chou fleur

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Cauliflower Steaks with Herbed Cauliflower Purée

Finally the produce stands are showing signs of spring. Bountiful in the market these days are snowy white heads of cauliflower; they inspire me to try new ways to showcase their beauty. So I found this inventive recipe, a creation of chef Dan Barber, champion of the farm to table movement and an innovator when it comes to cooking vegetables. His restaurant, Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Westchester County, is located within an 80 acre farm whose mission is to educate about agriculture. I recently had the honor of attending a conversation with chef Barber and the legendary Ferran Adrià (of El Bulli fame) where the topic of discussion was rethinking the way we approach and prepare the food we eat. Chef Barber, apologizing for his sleepiness, told of how he had been up all night trying to conceive an innovative way to serve enormous parsnips that had grown on the farm. His solution? Present them as steaks: sliced crosswise, grilled, and accompanied with traditional steakhouse sides like creamed spinach and baked potato. This cauliflower dish is a lovely riff on that theme.

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