Here in the Northeast, we’ve been suffering through one of the snowiest winters in years. Of course, the best way to cope with cabin fever is to cook a big pot of something rich and hearty. My ultimate comfort food, Osso Buco, fits that bill. I usually reserve it for special occasions–not because it’s complicated, but because it does require a bit of time and preparation. It merits the wait. After 2 1/2 hours in the oven, I love tucking into the rich sauce, the tender meat falling off the bone, the succulent marrow…my mouth is watering just thinking about it! Top it with gremolata, a condiment of finely minced lemon zest, garlic and parsley, which lends a fresh, biting contrast of flavor to the robust sauce. Paired with a classic risotto, this meal will make you all warm and happy inside.
Osso Buco with Gremolata and Risotto Milanese
This recipe employs one of my favorite cooking techniques: braising. Searing the meat first creates rich caramelization; cooking the dish low and slow helps to tenderize it and meld all the flavors. Osso Buco is built on an aromatic base of the classic mirepoix: diced carrot celery, and onion; tomato for a bit of acid; lemon zest for brightness; fresh thyme, sage, and/or oregano for depth of flavor.
It’s best to use a thick cut of grass-fed veal shank: 1 1/2 – 2 inches is best. If they are really thick, use butcher twine to tie around the middle so the shanks will retain their shape during cooking. After seasoning liberally with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, quickly dredge the shanks in flour and sear them in a heavy cast iron dutch oven or pot.
Lightly brown the veal on both sides and then transfer the shanks to a plate. Remove any excess oil from the pot. Reheat and add olive oil to the fond (that lovely crust of flavor that develops when the meat caramelizes) that has formed in the bottom of the pan.
Cook the mirepoix until the vegetables turn translucent. Add the meat (and any juices that have accumulated on the plate) back to the pot. Also add the tomato, wine, veal or chicken stock, herbs and lemon zest. Cover and place in the oven for 2 1/2 hours, until the veal is almost falling-off-the-bone tender and the sauce has cooked down to a thick consistency.
As a counterbalance to the richness of this sauce, I love to serve a condiment with this dish known as gremolata. It’s simply a mix of grated lemon zest, finely minced garlic cloves and flat leaf parsley–when combined and sprinkled over the Osso Buco, it adds a freshness and bite that contrasts well with the veal.
Of course, the perfect (and traditional) accompaniment to Osso Buco is risotto–in this case, Risotto Milanese, made with saffron. Making risotto is not that tricky, it just requires a bit of extra attention to make sure not to overcook (or undercook) it.
Start by sautéing onion in butter, in this case, red onion, with a fat pinch of Spanish saffron, until translucent. Add the rice (my preference is the Arborio variety) and toast for a minute in the pan before beginning to add liquid.
Add white wine first, until it is absorbed, then slowly add hot chicken stock, a ladle or two at a time, always allowing the liquid to be almost fully absorbed before adding the next round. Continue this way until the rice has plumped and is al dente to the taste. Finish risotto by adding butter, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, salt and ground black pepper to taste.
Serves 4:
Osso Buco:
4 veal shanks, cut 1 1/2 – 2 inches thick
kosher salt and pepper
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small carrot, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
1 small red onion, diced
1 cup crushed italian plum tomatoes
2 cups dry red wine
2 cups veal or chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 teaspoon each thyme, oregano, and/or sage, chopped
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
Gremolata:
zest of 2 lemons, grated
2-3 garlic cloves, finely minced
1/4 cup flat italian parsley, chopped
Risotto Milanese:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small red onion, minced
1 large pinch of spanish saffron threads
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
kosher salt and pepper
1 cup dry white wine
3-4 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese