eye candy

 

I’m a big proponent of seasonal cooking: using ingredients that are fresh and local; creating the flavors that we crave at the moment. It keeps things interesting in the kitchen. Fall screams slow braises, rich soups, pumpkins, apples and, especially, root vegetables. To that point, the November issues of three food magazines I subscribe to each (coincidentally) featured a version of this definitively fall salad. All were variations on the same theme, but what caught my eye was the unusual presentation they each employed. Instead of dicing or wedging the beets, they sliced the roots thinly, creating a prettier plate. I’ve made a lot of beet salads in my day (it’s one of my husband’s favorites), but I was impressed by this new arrangement. I also liked the concept of mixing other root vegetables in the salad. Here’s my spin on this classic–with all the different colors, I think it’s quite beautiful. I roasted the components individually, dressed them to perfection, then carefully plated them to optimize eye appeal. It’s a work of (food) art.

Roasted Beet, Turnip & Carrot Salad

 
We eat with our eyes as well as our mouths, so presentation is important. The variations of color in this salad are what make it so mouth-watering, so eye-catching. I love the flavor juxtaposition of bitter turnip against the sweet beets, earthy carrots, tangy feta, and the distinct flavor of fresh mint, which adds a palate pleasing pop. When I buy beets, I prefer to purchase them as whole bunches. You never know how long those loose ones have been around. I’ve used golden and red beets in this salad, but if you find other colors in your market, go for it. Variety is welcome. 


Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In order to maintain the integrity of the beet colors, keep the reds away from the golds. Scrub the beets clean, cut off their leafy tops and trim the root ends. Peel the beets and cut in half crosswise, so they’ll cook a little faster. 



Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and top with a few sprigs of thyme. Separately wrap the red beets and the gold beets in foil packages. Repeat with the turnip: trim, peel, and drizzle with olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme; wrap in foil. Put all three packages on a baking sheet and place in the oven. Roast for 45 minutes to an hour.



I couldn’t find baby carrots in my market, so I selected a bunch of very thin carrots instead. Trim, peel, and slice the carrots in half on the diagonal. If the carrots you find are thicker, slice them in half lengthwise as well. 



Toss cut carrots with olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, and lay out in a single layer on a small baking sheet. Place them in the oven and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, tossing at least once midway. 



While the veggies are roasting, whip up the dressing. Finely chop a small shallot and add to 1 tablespoon of aged sherry vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes so the shallot can soften and mellow in the acid. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper and add a teaspoon of honey. Slowly whisk in 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, until emulsified.

Prepare the garnishes: pick fresh mint leaves from their stems and roughly tear into small bits. Crumble feta cheese–I prefer to use French valbresso feta, which is made from sheep’s milk and is creamier and less salty than most Greek fetas.



Open the foil packages and check the beets and turnip with the sharp point of a knife to make sure they’re tender. When they’re done, take them out of the oven, remove them from the foil and allow to cool slightly. Whisk any beet juices that have accumulated in the foil into the dressing. Remove the carrots from the oven when they’re cooked through. When they’ve cooled, thinly slice the beets and turnip crosswise using a sharp knife. 



Have fun creating your work of art: lay the red and golden beet and turnip slices out decoratively on a platter. Layer the carrots on top. Sprinkle the feta crumbles and torn mint leaves over all and drizzle with the sherry vinaigrette. Pretty enough for a frame but too delicious not to eat.

 
Serves 4:


1 bunch red beets
1 bunch golden beets
1 large turnip
1 bunch thin or baby carrots
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 to 9 thyme sprigs
1 small shallot, finely minced
1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces French valbresso feta
1 tablespoon mint leaves, torn

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