dinner party: the love story continues

And so the preparations for my fabulous evening go on. My Boeuf Bourguignon is simmering on the stove, my table is set, my music selected. In keeping with my French theme, I’m beginning the evening with a couple of light hors d’oeuvres: farm fresh radishes, served with sweet butter and sea salt, and Gougeres, crispy and light cheese puffs made with nutty gruyere. The consummate cocktail companions



As a perfect counterpoint to my rich stew, I’m serving an accompaniment that is also classically gallic: Celeri Remoulade. You may have seen celery root (also known as celeriac) in the produce section of your market and wondered what those ugly things are. You’ll be surprised to discover that underneath that hairy, knobby exterior, there is a root with great texture and the slightest hint of celery flavor. Mixed with a creamy remoulade and allowed to sit, the vegetable slightly wilts, lending its flavor to the sauce and vice versa. Another dish perfectly adaptable to entertaining–it’s a simply smashing side.

Act Two: Celeri Remoulade

 


This delectably creamy dish has tang and texture, and is undeniably elegant. The remoulade can be made a day ahead and the celery root cut up an hour or two before the party. You could use store bought mayonnaise in this recipe, but I bet when you see how easy it is to make your own, you’ll go for it. Use a neutral oil here–grapeseed is perfect, olive oil would have too strong a flavor.


It’s important to have a steady bowl to work with while whipping up your mayo. A neat trick for making any bowl stable is to dampen a paper towel and place it underneath the bowl. There’s a lot of whisking involved here, so just remember the key is patience, patience, patience.


Begin with a fresh large egg yolk, add 1 1/2 tablespoons dijon mustard, and whisk together. Start adding the grapeseed oil, a few drops at a time, while you constantly whisk. Once the mayo begins to thicken, continue adding the oil in a thin stream, a teaspoon at a time, until it is thick and creamy. Whisk in lemon juice and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. If you’re making this ahead of schedule, cover with plastic wrap, making sure to place the plastic right on the surface of the mayo.


About an hour or so before serving, prepare the celery root. Don’t be intimidated by its ugliness–use a sharp knife to trim away all of the peel. Slice the root thinly using a sharp chef’s knife, or a mandoline, if you have one. It helps to cut a flat surface on the bottom of the root so it can stand while you slice. 



Stack the slices and cut them into thin julienne or matchsticks, tossing them in a bowl with lemon juice as you work, so they won’t turn brown.

 


Finely chop cornichons and capers and add them to your mayonnaise. Toss the sauce with the celery root matchsticks. Cover and let refrigerate to allow the root to wilt and the flavors to meld. 




Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Garnish with finely chopped parsley–always use flat leaf parsley–and serve. Bon Appetit!


Serves 6:

1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tablespoons dijon mustard
3/4 cup grapeseed oil
juice of 1 large lemon, plus more to toss with celery root
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium celery roots (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons
1 tablespoon chopped capers
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat leaf parsley


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