Spring is in the air–well, sort of–and after the horrible winter we’ve had here in the northeast, everyone is itching to go out and get reconnected. Catching up with old friends, while getting some new food inspiration is one of my favorite ways to spend an evening. I’ve had the good fortune to share some special meals during recent gatherings at a bevy restaurants that I can best describe as small jewels–old, new, and in-between. You might say it was like taking a trip across the continent, the European continent, that is.
The Odeon
The quintessential brasserie for over 30 years, The Odeon has established itself as a New York institution that still holds true to its roots. The first time I’d been back here in a long time, I was meeting old friends I hadn’t seen in many years, and, frankly, wasn’t expecting much of a meal. But I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food, the professional, yet laid back service, and the convivial atmosphere. Because I was unsure of what to expect, I decided to stick with the standards.
I began with a bowl of rich French onion soup crusted over with bubbly, melted gruyere–almost as good as my version. I followed my soup with the Country Frisee salad–the crispy bacon lardons were so light they melted in my mouth. Topped with Fourme d’Ambert cheese (a cow’s milk blue) and a poached egg, this salad was dressed in a perfect dijon vinaigrette–a flavor I still crave. My girlfriend shared a taste of her expertly blended and seasoned steak tartare, served with long thin crispy croutons; its flavor took me right back to Paris. I remembered this meal at Odeon fondly–so much so, that it wasn’t long before I went back.
My second trip was with one of my oldest and dearest pals. We were both tempted to order the Croque Monsieur, but were afraid it might be heavy. We went for it anyway and it did not disappoint. Instead of a large cumbersome sandwich, we were served a perfect portion: Black Forest ham, Prosciutto di Parma and gruyere cheese melted goodness, smothered in a creamy lush Mornay sauce and topped with a fried egg. The side of mixed greens was again dressed in that perfect dijon vinaigrette. Crispy frites served in a silver cup and a glass of red wine completed this brasserie meal and we were so satisfied. Can’t wait for the next occasion to head to The Odeon.
Txikito
We began with lovely white asparagus, smothered in a celery-black truffle vinaigrette and chopped egg–delicious, but not really extraordinary. More of a knockout was the accompanying warm canape of shredded chorizo topped with fried quail eggs, which were perfectly cooked and especially yummy once the yolks were broken and oozing over the sausage.
Gambas Plantxa, head-on shrimp, cooked “a la plancha” (on the cooktop) with olive oil and sea salt, were a simple, yet succulent plate. A perfect example of how good quality ingredients, cooked with the proper technique, often yield the best results. Tender squid ribbons, like a plate of pasta, were also tasty but not a particular stand out.
The piece de resistance of this meal was the evening’s special. A hunk of roast suckling pig served on a pool of chimichurri sauce. The meat was dense and unctuous, framed by that requisite shard of crisp skin; the tangy, herbaceous sauce provided the perfect contrast and bite. A memorable mouthful…
We finished with two desserts: mandarin slices, which were topped by a glob of not-so-creamy olive oil gelato, and a dense chocolate pudding topped with a heft of whipped cream. Overall, though the meal was uneven at times, it was enjoyable dining and I’ll be sure to come back to further explore Basque cuisine.
Babbo
We were seated at a lovely table in the corner upstairs (as requested), but we were soon dismayed at the seeming lack of attention from our server. We waited longer than I would have liked to place our orders, and when we did finally have our waiter’s attention, he was helpful and friendly, if a bit distracted. Not exactly the level of service I expected at this 3 star restaurant.
I was thrilled that my kids were both committed to experiment with new flavors tonight. My teenage daughter started with the grilled octopus antipasti–charred and crispy in a lusciously tart Limoncello sauce; my son enjoyed the infamous Batali beef cheek ravioli with black truffles. My plate of goose liver ravioli made me immensely happy–stained purple by balsamic vinegar and brown butter, it was exceedingly rich and oozed umami-ness.
These auspicious starters were followed by even more adventurous secondi. I enjoyed fennel-dusted sweetbreads which were delicate and almost candy-like, served with sweet and sour onions–they reminded me of a certain Chinese chicken. Duck in a cherry vinaigrette served with braised puntarelle (a spicy green) had my daughter grinning from ear to ear. But the hands-down winner of the evening, was my son’s order of “Guancia Ripena”(stuffed cheek)–a pork jowl filled with sausage and drizzled with a savory broccoli rabe pesto. Crispy, tender, savory, tangy–an amazing flavor combination that left him gasping with joy.
Our desserts were the perfect finale. The soft, warm chocolate hazelnut cake with hazelnut gelato, a Nutella lover’s dream, was drizzled with orange sauce and garnished with candied orange peel. The banana custard crostata (complete with “Happy Birthday” spelled out on the plate) sent us to the moon. Aside from a few service blips, this meal will long be remembered and savored–and, hopefully, repeated in the not too distant future!
Wow, I’m jealous of all of your wonderful meals. Although your amazing descriptions made me feel like I was enjoying them alongside you! Happy birthday to J.
Thanks, Ellyn! They weren’t always so game–my daughter, especially, was a pretty finicky eater growing up. I believe if you keep exposing kids to a lot of flavors, eventually they’ll give things a try. One of the reasons I think it’s so important to have family dinners! Appreciate the support 🙂
Pennie, your prose is wonderful! I am super impressed at the adventurousness of your teenage children…well, actually, your son is officially a young man, but still quite impressive at what they so gamely tried!!!!!