a case of mistaken identity

Roasted Rhubarb Salad

Ah, rhubarb. So misunderstood. Once used for medicinal purposes in ancient China, today it’s a popular component in pies, crisps and compotes. But you may not know that rhubarb is actually a vegetable. An incredibly tart vegetable, which explains why these ruby red stalks benefit greatly from being stewed with sweetener. To honor its true identity, while respecting its limitations, I’m featuring it here in a more savory context. Rhubarb, tossed with honey, is simply roasted to render it tender. Those rosy chunks are then beautifully showcased in a composed salad of bitter and peppery greens, nutty walnuts, and soft and creamy blue cheese…no existential crisis here.

There’s a real juxtaposition of flavors, textures and colors in this salad. For the greens, I used my favorite peppery arugula and pretty purple watercress I found at Whole Foods for a bitter bite. Toasted walnut halves add crunch, mild and sweet gorgonzola dolce adds a creamy component which all plays very nicely with the sweet-tart and tender roasted rhubarb. A simple balsamic vinaigrette made with walnut oil brings it all home.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. When choosing rhubarb at the market, make sure the stalks are a nice ruby color and firm/crisp, not rubbery. Trim the ends off the stalks and then chop into 2 inch lengths. Toss with honey and lay out on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Place the rhubarb in the upper third of the oven to roast for 5 to 8 minutes, until soft; let cool.

Place the walnut halves on a small baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 minutes, until golden.

Properly washed and dried greens can make all the difference in a well-dressed salad. Lettuce should be rinsed to remove any grit and then dried well so that the dressing will adhere to its leaves. A good salad spinner is the right tool for the job: fill the bowl about two-thirds with cool water. Use your fingers to swish the greens in the water and then let them rest for a few minutes–the sand and grit will sink to the bottom of the bowl.

Carefully lift the greens from the water and place them in the colander part of the spinner. Dump the water from the bowl, place the colander inside, cover and give it a good spin to dry. If there’s time before serving, I also like to place a paper towel on top of the greens, cover the spinner and place it in the fridge to crisp.

Walnut oil has a lovely toasty flavor and highlights the nuts in this salad–if you don’t have it, just use good olive oil. Make the dressing: in a small bowl or pyrex measuring cup, whisk together balsamic vinegar, kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and walnut oil.

Place the greens in a large salad bowl and toss with the dressing until lightly coated. Top with the toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola cheese. Individually plate the salad and top each serving with several pieces of the roasted rhubarb.